Livarot’s binding

From January 1st 2017, all Livarot, (including the 7cm in diameter, the most common size made in the Auge region) must be binded with sedge leaves, harvested in the area of the controlled designation of origin. Two thirds of current production is made with paper binding, which is less expensive to produce, but absorbs the humidity of the cheese and tends to stick to the rind.

This choice is about going back to basics, and more about paying tribute to tradition than a necessity. Historically, Livarot was not destined to travel. It had a height of 5 centimetres and had a tendency to ooze out and lose its form. It was an astute peasant who had the idea of wrapping strips of reed (sedge) around the cheese to aid in transportation. That way, the local peasants who left to work in the fields for the day could take their cheese with them in their satchels.

Current dairies for the most part, have decided to grow their own reeds and have signed up to a program which aims at digging out ponds and reed beds. Harvest takes place in summer, from August to September. At this point in time, the reeds are at their peak and measure from 1.2m to 1.5m, which are able to go round the perimeter of the cheese 5 times (AOC regulations impose a minimum of 3).

Washed and cut, the sedge is then gathered into wreaths and left to dry for several months in a well ventilated barn. Once dry, they are then split lengthwise so that the sap can also dry. After that, they are then split into bands of half a centimetre in width and sterilized to avoid all health risks.